Transmission Fluid

What is this?

Changing automatic transmission fluid is best left to a mechanic equipped with a transmission flusher, like this Wynn's Transerve II+, which replaces the fluid more thoroughly than you could achieve with gravity alone.

Transmission fluid is a slippery liquid that acts as a lubricant for all of the moving parts inside your transmission. In an automatic transmission, this fluid also serves as a coolant and a viscous fluid that transmits power from the engine to the transmission.

A variety of fluids are used for different transmissions. Automatic transmissions use something called — shockingly — automatic transmission fluid. Manual transmissions use a variety of oils: regular motor oil, heavyweight hypoid gear oil or even automatic transmission fluid in some cases. Your owner's manual will tell you what your transmission calls for.

Should I do this service when it's recommended?

Yes, definitely, regardless of whether you have a manual or an automatic transmission.

Manual: Most manufacturers recommend that manual transmission fluid be changed every 30,000 to 60,000 miles. Under heavy-duty use, some manufacturers suggest changing transmission fluid every 15,000 miles.

Automatic: Service intervals for an automatic transmission vary from every 30,000 miles ... to never. The typical service interval is 60,000 to 100,000 miles. Changing it more often does no harm.

Why do I have to do this?

Manual: In a manual transmission, the problem is not so much the fluid degradation, but rather fluid contamination. This contamination occurs over time as the synchronizers, bearings and gears in the transmission wear out. The resulting metal particles then float around in the lubricant. And we all know that oil with microscopic particles of metal in it does not lubricate as well as clean oil. So if these contaminants are not drained out, they will shorten the life of your transmission.

Automatic: Because more heat is generated in an automatic transmission, automatic transmission fluid actually degrades and breaks down with use.

In addition, like in a manual transmission, automatic transmission fluid will also become contaminated with worn bits of the transmission. If these contaminants are not drained out, they will shorten the life of your transmission.

What happens if I don't do this?

If you don't change the transmission fluid on schedule, you'll be lubricating your transmission with metal shavings and other contaminants. This will shorten the transmission's life. The result could be a hefty boat payment to your mechanic. In other words, changing your transmission fluid at the correct interval is a good investment.

Is there any maintenance required between intervals?

Automakers have gotten better in recent years about labeling or color-coding dipsticks. The ring on the right is red to match the automatic transmission fluid, the level of which this dipstick measures. The yellow ring is clearly marked "engine oil."

Yes. It's important to regularly check the transmission fluid level between service intervals. Letting your car run low on transmission fluid can cause the transmission to shift improperly — or not at all. It also can harm the internal parts of your transmission, which will not be properly lubricated. Unfortunately, you may not hear any noises or have other clues that your transmission is low on fluid, until it's too late. So it's important to get it checked.

Here's how you can check your transmission fluid level:

Manual: Checking the transmission fluid in a manual transmission can be difficult. A few thoughtful manufacturers have included a dipstick, but that's the exception rather than the rule. If you own a car with a manual transmission, we suggest that you ask your mechanic to check the fluid level when your car is up on the lift during an oil change. It takes just a minute.

Automatic: If you own a car with an automatic transmission, your car will have a dipstick for this purpose. Be careful not to make the common mistake of confusing the transmission dipstick with the crankcase dipstick.

Oil Changes

What is this?

Changing your own oil requires ramps or a jack and jack stands, a box-end wrench and something to catch and contain the oil.

An oil and filter change involves draining out the old motor oil and replacing it with fresh, new motor oil. The oil filter also gets replaced at the same time.

Should I do this service when it's recommended?

In general, yes. Changing your vehicle's oil is one of the most important things you can do to avoid bringing large bags of money to your mechanic later on.

However, there's a lot of controversy about exactly when engine oil gets old and how often it should be replaced with new oil. Because there are many factors at work -- how you drive, the condition and age of the engine, the external environment you drive in, and stop-and-go versus highway driving -- it's an inexact science. Owner's manual recommendations for oil and filter changes vary from 3,000 to 10,000 miles.

We recommend that you change your oil and filter every 5,000 miles. That's our best estimate. It may be too soon for many people and too late for a few, but for the vast majority, 5,000-mile oil changes will help your engine last to a ripe, old age.

You may want to consider changing your oil more frequently if:

• You drive like a knucklehead: jackrabbit starts, heavy acceleration or high-speed driving
• You live where the climate is extremely hot or cold
• You often drive on dirt roads
• Your engine is old and burns oil
• You frequently carry heavy loads (several mothers-in-law or other cargo)

Why do I have to do this?

Oil undergoes thermal breakdown due to high operating temperature. When this occurs, the oil becomes less effective as a lubricant. And without a good lubricant (read: expensive), parts of the engine rub together and wear each other out.

You'll need some type of oil-filter wrench; here are two sizes of socket-style cap wrenches -- one fitted to an oil filter and the other to a 3/8-inch-drive breaker bar handle.

Oil also contains additives that have the ability to neutralize acids. Over time, these additives get used up and stop being effective.

Finally, oil can absorb water, dust and combustion byproducts and also hold them in suspension. Eventually, the oil gets saturated with this stuff and can't absorb any more. Then that stuff remains in the engine and can cause corrosion.

What happens if I don't do this?

Your engine won't last as long as it could. Oil serves many crucial functions, and clean oil performs those functions better than dirty oil. Oil is relatively cheap, and changing your oil every 5,000 miles is a very cheap insurance policy against major repairs down the road.

Is there any maintenance required between intervals?

Yes, you need to check the oil level every few hundred miles. With your car parked on a level surface, remove the oil dipstick, clean it on your brother's best shirt and then reinsert it. Remove it again, and check the oil level.

The dipstick shows the engine's oil level; the MIN marking means the oil is at the minimum operating level and is one quart low.

Ideally, it should be right at the full mark. If it's at or below the add mark, that means you're a quart low and should add a quart of oil to the crankcase. If it's in between the two marks, you can add part of a quart to bring it up to the full mark (the distance between add and full represents a quart, so use that to estimate how much of a quart you need). Be aware, however, that since oil flows slowly when it is cool, the dipstick may not immediately reflect any oil you just added. So estimate the amount of oil you need based on your first dipstick reading, and then check it again later that day or the next day to be sure you're near the full mark.

A word of caution: Be careful not to overfill your car's crankcase with oil. If you put in too much oil, the engine's crankshaft can actually come in contact with the oil. And because the crankshaft is turning at several thousand revolutions per minute, it can quickly whip your oil into a froth -- like the steamed milk that sits on the top of a cappuccino. Why is that bad? Well, the oil pump can't pump froth very well, and as a result, it can't get oil to the parts of the engine that need lubrication. The result ... a hefty boat payment to your mechanic.

If you are low on oil, you can add any grade of engine motor oil you like -- though we advise you to use the grade of oil recommended in your owner's manual.

Your Car In The Mechanic Shop
Taking your car to the mechanic shop could be a big head ache, but is not a big problem if you take it regularly to be checked.
If you have a new car it is obligatory to take it to the shop after 1000 kilometers of travel, then your car needs to have the oil changed, this always includes the filter, normally after that you need to go back to the mechanic shop when you complete 5000 kilometers of travel.
In this visit your car is going to have a little better check, again the oil and oil filter are going to be changed and also any noise that you, as the driver of the car, have heard it has to be fixed
Normally they check the level of any fluid in your car, this includes transmission, gears, battery and even wipers water level, also your brakes are going to be checked.
Is very unusual that the brake pads need to be replaced for a new ones because they normally last 10000 kilometers, it is possible that the brake pads last 15000 kilometers, this depend exclusively of your driving.
Some people brake a lot in the motorway and also inside the city so the pads finish quicker than the ones who does not brake a lot, speaking about brakes you may need to have in your mind that the brakes are the most important part in your car, well everything needs to be working properly but if your brakes fail you are actually risking your live.
After 10000 kilometers if you have your brakes checked it is possible that you need to change the disc brake too, in addition the drum brake is normally rectified.
In this visit to the mechanic shop many other things need a proper check up, for example the injection system, if your car works with petrol (gasoline), if the car works with diesel the injection system is going to be checked after 20000 kilometers.
After 10000 kilometers of travel it is necessary also to execute what I should call the engine tuning and it consists in the verification of all the sensors that the car has in the motor such as oxygen, air, temperature, acceleration, etc, all this electronic devices that make your car work smoothly are very precise and any variation in them could lead to a failing in the machine
Last but not least the suspension needs to be readjusted, all the screws and nuts, and any part underneath the car floor, is very important that you do the checkups every 10000 kilometers so you don't have to spend more money if your car breaks down for care lack. Remember is better the prevention than the remediation.
Article Source: http://www.streetarticles.com/repairs/your-car-in-the-mechanic-shop

Preparing An Emergency Kit

Anything That Can Go Wrong, Will

Imagine you're on a road trip with your family. You have planned and prepared for this trip for weeks, and you're finally on your way. The car is packed to the roof with suitcases and various other vacation essentials, but as you wind your way along that steep mountain road deep in the hinterland of your favorite national park, you hear a terrible sound, feel a thump, thump, thump, and realize that you have a flat tire.
You pull to the side of the road, unload the suitcases that are covering the spare tire in the back, only to discover that the tire is flat and the jack is missing. As the sun slowly sets behind the mountain ridge you began to scramble around looking for that flashlight. As you flip open your cell phone to call for a tow truck, you see that the battery is almost dead. . .
OK, this may be a worst-case scenario, but it might have even been worse. The adage that says, "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure," while cliched, is true. Had this family taken a bit of time to assemble a basic roadside emergency kit, their journey would have been far easier that day.

What to Put In Your Kit

Your trunk space is limited―especially while traveling ― but there are certain items that you really should carry with you in the event of an emergency.
You can assemble these items yourself at an auto supply store, or department store, or purchase a pre-assembled kit online. The American Red Cross offers an emergency kit, and the website Outdoor Lodge recommends the following list of items:

• Flashlights and extra batteries.

• A folding camping (Army) shovel.

• Jumper cables (8-12 feet long).

• Set of tire chains. Know how to install these beforehand.

• Fuses. There are several types, so make sure you have the right ones for your car.

• Tools: pliers, flat and Phillips-head screwdrivers, and an adjustable wrench.

• Wool blanket.

• All the necessary fluids for your car, including 2 quarts of motor oil, brake fluid, power-steering fluid (if applicable), automatic transmission fluid (if applicable), a gallon of water, and a gallon of antifreeze. Also include a funnel, and keep a few rags handy in case of spills.

• Fire extinguisher.

• Road flares.

• Gloves, wool socks, and a pair of boots.

• Electrical and duct tape.

• WD-40.

• Knife.

• Bright cloth or emergency road sign to display in your window in case of trouble.

Other items to consider are:

• Non-perishable food items and a can opener

• Rain gear

• Extra clothes

• Folding chair(s)

• Pillows

• Sleeping bags

• Snacks

• Books and games

• Toilet paper

As our example illustrates, it's important to make sure your cell phone is charged up before you hit the road on a long trip. Having a car charging cord is a great idea if you will be driving for several days at a time. Another item that would be useful to have in your car in case of emergency is a first aid kit. A small manual with instructions on how to do some basic roadside repairs is a good thing to have in your kit, as well.
Be sure to walk through changing a tire in the safety of your driveway, so you know how to do it before you are called upon to do it in the dark in the driving rain.
Check the contents of your kit when the seasons change. The blanket, chains and ice scraper are important for winter driving conditions, but you may not need them in August.
Keeping a roadside emergency kit in your car will arm you with both peace of mind, and the tools you'll need to rescue yourself in the event of an emergency during your travels.
Other Resources:
The American Red Cross is a great resource for emergency preparedness supplies.
FEMA has lots of good information about disaster/emergency preparedness.

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NY State Inspection

Safety Inspection

How often must I get a vehicle inspection?
All vehicles registered in New York State must get a safety inspection and an emissions inspection every 12 months. Both inspections are also required when the ownership of a vehicle is transferred. (Some vehicles are exempt from emissions inspections.) Both inspections are done at the same time by a DMV-certified inspector at privately-owned inspection stations licensed by DMV.
If you buy a vehicle from a NYS dealer, the dealer must have the vehicle inspected. The inspection must occur within 30 days of the date of sale and prior to delivery.
You receive an inspection extension if you buy or get a vehicle from an out-of-state source. After you register the vehicle in NYS, you are allowed ten days to complete the vehicle inspections. Any inspection issued to the previous registrant is not valid after you register the vehicle.

If you become a resident of NYS and register your vehicle in NYS, your out-of-state inspection remains valid. The out-of-state certificate or inspection sticker issued in your name is valid until it expires, or for one year after the vehicle is registered in NYS, whichever comes first. When your out-of-state inspection expires, you must get the vehicle inspected in NYS.

Please note: If the previous inspection is still valid, but was performed in a jurisdiction that does not issue an inspection sticker, then you must obtain a valid inspection sticker by having your vehicle inspected in NYS. If you do not have a valid inspection sticker displayed on your vehicle, you will be subject to a summons from law enforcement.
Where can I get a vehicle inspected?
You must have a vehicle inspected at a DMV-licensed inspection station. These inspection stations display a yellow and black sign that reads, "Official Inspection Station." A motorcycle inspection station displays a blue and orange sign.
At the DMV web site, you can look up inspection stations by county and ZIP code.

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How To Detail Your Car

Washing the car has been an American tradition for decades, but more and more of today's cars are getting the deluxe treatment known as auto detailing.

Auto Detailing: What is It?

More than simply washing the exterior of your car with soapy water and a rag, or swiping the interior with Armor All and a vacuum, detailing means just what it says: focusing on and cleaning the tiny details of your car to take it from "clean" to "sparkling like new."
You can find professional detailers in practically every neighborhood, but if you like taking the time to make your car looks its best, you can get the same results right in your very own driveway. All it takes is a bag of supplies and your time and attention. Some experts suggest you dedicate four to eight hours to the job to get it done right.

Tools of the Trade

Before beginning the detailing process, you'll need the necessary implements and cleaning products. Besides the normal car-washing tools (bucket, water, soap, sponges, car wax, chamois), you'll find that you need some more specialized tools when it gets down to the nitty gritty. While everyone develops their own tackle box of magic depending on their car and the level of detail they wish to achieve, here are a few suggestions to get you started:

• Vacuum cleaner - should be for wet and dry surfaces and should have multiple attachments, preferably a couple for getting into tiny areas.

• Variety of rags - include terry cloth towels and thin cotton rags for finer surfaces.

• Various sizes of small brushes - try toothbrushes or paintbrushes.

• Q-tips and cotton swabs.

• Plastic spray bottles.

• Canned air.

• Upholstery cleaner.

• Carpet stain cleaner.

• All-purpose cleaner.

• Surface protector (for vinyl and leather surfaces).

Detailing the Interior of Your Car

Start with the interior, so you won't mess up the just-cleaned exterior while you're vacuuming and wiping out the inside of the car. While the order of steps isn't crucial, here's a sampling of the type of areas you should clean:

• Carpets: Vacuum them thoroughly first, then remove any stains with stain remover and a brush. Let the carpets dry completely. For mild stains, dilute the solution with water in a spray bottle. Use as little moisture as possible to prevent mildew. Clean floor mats with a stiff brush and lay them outside to dry thoroughly.

• Upholstery: Vacuum seats and then remove stains using the same process as you did for carpets. Let the seats dry completely with the car doors open.

• Door jambs: Open the car door and wipe the metal and plastic parts with a soapy solution. Dry them thoroughly with a rag and then use your smaller tools (Q-tips or brushes) to remove any tougher stains and spots in the area.

• Door interiors: Clean the non-cloth portions of your door interiors with a soapy solution. Concentrate on all the little cracks and crevices that collect dirt and grime. Dry the entire area with a thick cloth.

• Windows: Use glass cleaner or soapy solution to really make the inside of your windows shine. Don't worry about the exterior at this point. Dry thoroughly, taking care to erase any streaks.

• Steering wheel column: Use a soapy solution to remove dust and stains. Dry thoroughly, then apply a surface protectant to the entire surface.

• Dashboard: Don't spray water or cleaning solution on your dashboard; instead, use your small-area tools and apply the cleaning solution to the tool itself, then carefully clean around knobs and buttons. Dry everything thoroughly.

• Center console: Use your detailing tools to make sure every seam and indentation in the console is thoroughly cleaned and free of schmutz. Dry with a thick cloth.

Here are a few tips to make things easier:

• Use a plastic knife covered with a thin cloth to get down into deeper crevices and dig out caked-on grime or dust.

• Use canned air to blow dust and detritus from cracks or crevices that are hard to reach.

• Remove pet hair easily from seats and carpeting by running masking or duct tape around your hand, sticky side out. Run your hand over all the cloth surfaces until they are free from hair.

• Remove grease and ground-in dirt with a strong solution of detergent and water. Scrub hard with a stiff brush, then vacuum out with your wet vac.

• Some experts argue that silicone-based protectants (like Armor All) are not ideal because of the glossy shine and greasy film they tend to leave on surfaces. You can also find protectants that have a matte finish, block UV rays, and are free of silicone.

Detailing the Exterior of Your Car

Start with your wheels. Many auto supply stores sell solutions made especially the rubber in your tires, but you can also use the soapy solution you'll use for the rest of the car. Keep in mind that many household detergents can have the undesirable effect of stripping off any existing wax on your car's surface, so it's better to find a car-washing solution without detergent (check your local auto supply store for various brands). Use a pressure hose to knock off stubborn mud and dirt, and use a stiff brush to get the metal parts of your tire sparkling clean.
Change the water and grab a few clean rags to wash the rest of your car's body. Give your car a basic, thorough wash with plenty of water and the soapy solution. Wash small areas at a time, starting with the roof, and try not to let the surfaces dry out on their own. You can keep spraying the cleaned portions with the hose until you're ready to do the drying yourself.
Take special care to change your dirty rag for a new one when it accumulates too much dirt or sand. You don't want to scratch the finish of your car with the grime on the rag.
Use smaller brushes and tools for areas that need more attention, like the rims around your headlights and tail lights, the indentations in door handles, and side mirrors. Make sure to keep rinsing everything with clean water.
Once the entire body of the car has been thoroughly cleaned, dry it off with a clean chamois or a cotton cloth. Use your tools to dry water lying in cracks or in window wells. Now is the time to wax your car if you desire. After waxing your car, you may find small areas of wax deposit or dust after it dries thoroughly. Clean these off with a small brush.
The last thing you want to do is make the outside of the windshield and each window free from streaks and drips. Newsprint works wonders for a streak-free shine and even works on mirrors.

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While it may seem like a lot of work, it's a good idea to detail your car every few months. It will keep your car's surfaces and finishes healthy and protected, and will actually lengthen the life of your car. Plus, who doesn't love driving around in a fresh, spotless vehicle?

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